Travels in the Atlas and southern MoroccoA narrative of exploration . f the other places we had yetseen. The country around is flat, treeless, and unin-teresting, but decidedly fertile. During the summerthere is a considerable trade in wool, and in the autumna still greater traffic in grain. On the loth the sonorous voices of the variousMueddins calling the Salat el Fejir (prayers at dawn)were sufficient to wake us to our practical duties, andbefore sunrise we had cheerfully paid Arturos modestbill, and suitably acknowledged the God speeds ofsuch dependants on the good providence of Allah asha


Travels in the Atlas and southern MoroccoA narrative of exploration . f the other places we had yetseen. The country around is flat, treeless, and unin-teresting, but decidedly fertile. During the summerthere is a considerable trade in wool, and in the autumna still greater traffic in grain. On the loth the sonorous voices of the variousMueddins calling the Salat el Fejir (prayers at dawn)were sufficient to wake us to our practical duties, andbefore sunrise we had cheerfully paid Arturos modestbill, and suitably acknowledged the God speeds ofsuch dependants on the good providence of Allah ashad gathered to see us off and give us an opportunity C 34 MOROCCO. of exercising tlie cardinal virtue of charity ere we leftthe town. A handsome soldier, with military peakedfez, and the snow-white hnrnons, and voluminous haikwhich showed that he was a Irdd or officer, bestrode awell-caparisoned grey horse, and acted as our guideand escort, the living symbol that we travelled underthe special protection of the Sultan. A long flint-lock gun lying across the pommel of. OVli SciLDIER-GUIDE. his saddle or resting on his knee warned all passers-by of the deadly danger of molesting its owner orthose under his charge. A long sword swung in un-military fashion at his side as a recourse when thegun failed him, while a curved dagger hidden in theample folds of his dress was still a third weapon tocarry out the will of Allah and the behests of hislord. TANGIER TO AZAMOR. 35 Ifc was much to liave such au one as Kaid biuMahetli to give an air of distinction and pomp to ourparty, but it was of more practical importance to botho possessors of El Hadj Hamad, who followed be-hind him on a mule heaped with all the ivvpeiUmcntawe required on the way. lie was at once interpreter,valet, cook, groom, and muleteer, who spoke a fairamount of French, English, and Spanish, and placedall his varied acquirements at the disposal of suchNazarenes as ourselves—never ceasing to ask the par-don of Allah—for


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Keywords: ., bookauthorthomsonjoseph18581895, bookcentury1800, bookdecade1880