. Across Asia Minor on foot . tween cloud andmountain, a strip of clear green, I recognised thewarning of snow. Chat and Tatlar, and other placeswhich I had fondly hoped to visit—Soghanli Dare,with its cliffs hewn into facades sixteen stories inheight, and Melegob, whose villages are altogetherunderground in level country and reached by verticalshafts like coal mines—I decided to leave went back to Nevshehr, and thence set out forUrgub the same afternoon, to spend one other daythere before returning to Injesu. On the way to Urgub, when crossing a low ridgeafter leaving the road an
. Across Asia Minor on foot . tween cloud andmountain, a strip of clear green, I recognised thewarning of snow. Chat and Tatlar, and other placeswhich I had fondly hoped to visit—Soghanli Dare,with its cliffs hewn into facades sixteen stories inheight, and Melegob, whose villages are altogetherunderground in level country and reached by verticalshafts like coal mines—I decided to leave went back to Nevshehr, and thence set out forUrgub the same afternoon, to spend one other daythere before returning to Injesu. On the way to Urgub, when crossing a low ridgeafter leaving the road and taking to a path, a distantfinger-top of rock began to rise slowly over the sky-line. It seemed to be pierced with openings like agreat dove-cot, though Ighsan failed to recognise itas marking any place known by him. It lay to theeast, somewhat off our road, in country sinking tothe valley under Topuz Dagh. We went towardsit, however, and after an hour and a half of cross-country tramping were near enough to see it as a. Orta Hissar Rock and \ilIaoe. NEW ORDER OF TRAVELLING 239 rock like that of Uch Hissar, with a large villageclustering round its base. The afternoon had grownlate, and this village, which a peasant called Ortessa,or Orta Hissar, I left for the next days excursion. On foot Ighsans pace was always less than threemiles the hour ; for the last days ramble, therefore,I put him on the horse as mounted guide for apedestrian. The change enabled us to cover muchground, and also gave him a needed rest. It in-volved a loss of dignity for me in native opinion,for to make the true figure of importance I shouldhave ridden and Ighsan have gone afoot; betterstill, both of us should have been mounted, he carry-ing a rifle behind me as armed servant. But theseperfections were unattainable, and I had to makeshift as best I could; and in spite of my partylooking like zaptieh and prisoner, I ignored appear-ances for the sake of advantage. This order of travelling tickled Ighs
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