. Pacific shores from Panama . b, the unfinishedcathedral, begun when the mines of Potosi were atthe height of their activity, and the Presidents Pal-ace, where a group of soldiers mount guard in smartuniforms and bright steel helmets. In it, too, standthe carriages, open vehicles, each drawn by fourhorses, which fact will give you some idea of thesteepness of the streets. Few carts are ever seen,but pack-trains pass one constantly. Sometimesthese are composed of big mules, laden with tin andore from the great deposits of Huayna Potosi, headedby a bell-horse with red head-dress and gay pom-pon


. Pacific shores from Panama . b, the unfinishedcathedral, begun when the mines of Potosi were atthe height of their activity, and the Presidents Pal-ace, where a group of soldiers mount guard in smartuniforms and bright steel helmets. In it, too, standthe carriages, open vehicles, each drawn by fourhorses, which fact will give you some idea of thesteepness of the streets. Few carts are ever seen,but pack-trains pass one constantly. Sometimesthese are composed of big mules, laden with tin andore from the great deposits of Huayna Potosi, headedby a bell-horse with red head-dress and gay pom-pons, and followed by the arrieros, well mounted,watchful, shouting to their beasts, now in terms ofendearment, then again in curses. Next, perhaps,will come a flock of llamas, loaded with ice from theSierra, the cold water trickhng over their shaggycoats, or a long string of sure-footed donkeys carry-ing wood or fresh wheat from the fields, or driedsheep from the mountains, or loads of oil, two dozenbottles on either side. [218]. Old Courtyard, La Paz £-- J PACIFIC SHORES FROM PANAMA Sometimes, even, these pack-trains consist of men—also true beasts of burden—carrying incredibleloads. I saw, for instance, a family moving, everyhousehold article—beds, tables, wardrobes, lounges—carried on human backs up the steep streets, twelvethousand feet above the sea! Even pianos are thusmoved, slung on rawhide ropes between six again one asks ones self, is it the coca that givesthem the heart to do such work? You may see the Indian life down at the market,which, oddly enough, reminded us in several waysof the souks of Tunis with its pale-green colonnades,through which glints of dazzling sunshine filtered;its stalls with their venders squatting cross-leggedupon them, even the type of these bejewelled vend-ers themselves, cholo women for the most part. Of all the types of La Paz, these stout cholitas arethe most characteristic. Because of the decrease ofthe Indian race and


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