. Two centuries of costume in America, MDCXX-MDCCCXX . chiefs were some-times called cross-cloths or cross-clothes. Anothername is the picardill or piccadilly, a French titlefor a gorget. Fitzgerald, in 1617, wrote of a Ruffs and Bands 207 spruse coxcomb that he glanced at his pocketlooking-glass to see : — How his Band jumpeth with his PeccadillyWhether his Band-strings ballance equally. Another satirical author could write in 1638 that pickadillies are now out of request. The portrait of Captain Curwen of Salem (fac-ing page 204) is unlike many of his times. Overhis doublet hewears a hand-so


. Two centuries of costume in America, MDCXX-MDCCCXX . chiefs were some-times called cross-cloths or cross-clothes. Anothername is the picardill or piccadilly, a French titlefor a gorget. Fitzgerald, in 1617, wrote of a Ruffs and Bands 207 spruse coxcomb that he glanced at his pocketlooking-glass to see : — How his Band jumpeth with his PeccadillyWhether his Band-strings ballance equally. Another satirical author could write in 1638 that pickadillies are now out of request. The portrait of Captain Curwen of Salem (fac-ing page 204) is unlike many of his times. Overhis doublet hewears a hand-some embroid-ered shouldersash called atrooping-scarf;and his broadlace tie is veryunusual for theyear 1660. Iknow few likeit upon Amer-ican gentlemenin portraits;and I fancy itis a gorget, ora piccadilly. Itis pleasant to know that this handsome piece oflace has been preserved. It is here shown with hiscane. A little negative proof may be given as to and article. The gorget is said to be anadaptation of the wimple. Our writers of historical. Lace Gorget and Cane of Captain GeorgeCurwen. 208 Two Centuries of Costume tales are very fond of attiring their heroines inwimples and kirtles. Both have a picturesque, anantique, sound — the wimple is Biblical and Shake-sperian, and therefore ever satisfying to the ear,and to the sight in manuscript. But 1 have neverseen the word wimple in an inventory, list, invoice,letter, or book of colonial times, and but once theword kirtle. Likewise are these modern authors abit vague as to the manner of garment a wimple fair maid is described as having her fair formwrapped in a warm wimple. She might as well bedescribed as wrapped in a warm cravat. For awimple was simply a small kerchief or covering forthe neck, worn in the thirteenth and fourteenthcenturies. Another quaint term, already obsolete when theMayflower sailed, was partlet. A partlet was aninner kerchief, worn with an open-necked bodice ordoublet. Its trim plaited edge


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Keywords: ., boo, bookcentury1900, bookdecade1900, booksubjectclothinganddress