. Two centuries of costume in America, MDCXX-MDCCCXX . eeve with cuff in which ourmodern artists are given to depicting Virginian andNew England dames. Doubtlessthe general shape of the dress wassimple enough, but the sleeve wasthe only part which was not closeand plain and unornamented. Ihave found no close coat sleeveswith cuffs upon any old Americanportraits. I recall none on Englishportraits. You may see them,though rarely, in England underhanging sleeves upon figures whichhave proved valuable conservatorsof fashion, albeit sombre of designand rigid of form, namely, effigies in stone or me
. Two centuries of costume in America, MDCXX-MDCCCXX . eeve with cuff in which ourmodern artists are given to depicting Virginian andNew England dames. Doubtlessthe general shape of the dress wassimple enough, but the sleeve wasthe only part which was not closeand plain and unornamented. Ihave found no close coat sleeveswith cuffs upon any old Americanportraits. I recall none on Englishportraits. You may see them,though rarely, in England underhanging sleeves upon figures whichhave proved valuable conservatorsof fashion, albeit sombre of designand rigid of form, namely, effigies in stone or metalupon old tombs; these not after the year 1620, thoughthese are really a small leg-of-mutton sleeve be-ing gathered into the arm-scye. A beautiful brass ina church on the Isle of Wight is dated 1615. Thishas long, hanging sleeves edged with leaflike pointsof cut-work ; cuffs of similar work turn back fromthe wrists of the undersleeves. A Satyr by Fitz-geffrey, published the same year, complains that thewrists of women and men are closeed with bush-. Dress of the New England Mothers 83 points, ribbons, or rebato-twists. Double cufts isan entry in a Plymouth inventory —which explainsitself. In the hundreds of inventories I have inves-tigated I have never seen half a dozen entries ofcuffs. The two or three I have found have beenspecified as lace cuffs. George Fox, the founder of Quakerism, wrotewith a vivid pen ; one of his own followers said withseverity, He paints high. Some of his denuncia-tions of the dress of his day afford a very goodnotion of the peculiarities of contemporary costume ;though he may be read with this caution in writes deploringly of womens sleeves (in theyear 1654); it will be noted that he refers to doublecuffs: — The women having their cuffs double under and above,like a butcher with his white sleeves, their ribands tiedabout their hands, and three or four gold laces about theirclothes. There were three generations of English heraldsnamed Hol
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Keywords: ., boo, bookcentury1900, bookdecade1900, booksubjectclothinganddress
