. Bulletin of the Beach Erosion Board. Shore protection; Beach erosion. C = the wave -velocity AkC X e"'"'^^ X cosh (kd) = the maximum amplitude of wave motion. ^ = the surface elevation at time t, given by the real part of equation (1) For waves travelling in the direction of the positive y axis with no barrier present, F(x,y) = e-^^ (E-9) With a single rigid barrier present, Putnam and Arthur give as a solution F(x,y) = e"^^ . f(u^) + e^^ . g(u2) (E-IO) where f (u-), and g(u_) are given by g(up=^ ^""^/„' e-i'^'/^dv (E-12) u^ and Up being given by. TTCr-yT ^1 = V^ ori
. Bulletin of the Beach Erosion Board. Shore protection; Beach erosion. C = the wave -velocity AkC X e"'"'^^ X cosh (kd) = the maximum amplitude of wave motion. ^ = the surface elevation at time t, given by the real part of equation (1) For waves travelling in the direction of the positive y axis with no barrier present, F(x,y) = e-^^ (E-9) With a single rigid barrier present, Putnam and Arthur give as a solution F(x,y) = e"^^ . f(u^) + e^^ . g(u2) (E-IO) where f (u-), and g(u_) are given by g(up=^ ^""^/„' e-i'^'/^dv (E-12) u^ and Up being given by. TTCr-yT ^1 = V^ origin of coordinates. Breakwater SSSSSSSSSSS ^ direction of incident wave approach! (E-13) (E-lU) FIGURE E-2 Diffraction coordinates for a single breakwater E-3. Please note that these images are extracted from scanned page images that may have been digitally enhanced for readability - coloration and appearance of these illustrations may not perfectly resemble the original United States. Beach Erosion Board. [Washington, D. C. ] : The Board
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